It is a commonly occurring process of gradual destruction (degradation) of various types of materials. Corrosion occurs as a result of various types of processes or reactions, such as chemical, biological, electrochemical, as well as physical. Although we actually speak of corrosion in relation to a variety of both metallic and non-metallic surfaces (e.g., concrete, wood, plastics, etc.), it is actually most associated with the deterioration of metallic surfaces. Sometimes metal corrosion is referred to as "metal/iron oxidation" or "rusting." Rust is precisely the result of the oxidation of iron or its alloys and is simply a layer of oxides, hydroxides and iron salts - hence the phrase "metal/iron oxidation." Since corrosion is the result of surface/environmental contact, the primary method of corrosion protection is to protect the surface in question from direct contact with the environment/environment. Industrial coatings are precisely one of the most widely available methods of corrosion protection.

The abbreviations C4-H, C3-M and other such designations refer to the international standard ISO 12944. This is a widely used standard that specifies the corrosion protection of steel surfaces using paint (protective) systems (coatings). This standard is divided into 9 sections, which describe the factors affecting the corrosion process of steel, as well as ways to prevent the development of corrosion through the use of protective coatings. There you will find classes of corrosive environments - these are the abbreviations: C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, CX, with C1 being the least aggressive environment and CX the most aggressive environment in which the steel components in question will be used. The letters following the above-mentioned environment classes, on the other hand, specify the degree of protection against the development of corrosion in a given environment: 

L (in English, "LOW") means protection against corrosion for up to 7 years, 

M (English "MEDIUM") means protection against corrosion from 7 to 15 years, 

H (English "HIGH") means corrosion protection from 15 to 25 years, 

VH (VERY HIGH) means corrosion protection of more than 25 years. 

Using ISO 12944 standards, we can be sure that a given paint system will protect our components from corrosion in the right way. It should be remembered that the word "anticorrosive" is not standardized, so if a given paint product has such a term, it will not always mean that it has the right anticorrosive properties. It is always worth checking or asking the supplier about specific tests in accordance with the ISO 12944 standard just mentioned.

DTM stands for: Direct To Metal. It stands for a group of products that perform two functions in one product. That is, it is a primer and topcoat in one. In Polish, the expression "gruntoemalia" is used. These products can come in different variants and with different levels of corrosion protection. Gruntoemals, depending on the type of product, can have direct adhesion to steel, aluminum or galvanized surfaces.

Jest to bardzo ważna informacja. Dzięki zawartości części stałych można dość dokładnie wyliczyć zapotrzebowanie na daną farbę oraz grunt. Znając powierzchnię (ilość m2 do pomalowania) oraz docelową grubość powłoki (DFT) możemy wyliczyć ilość potrzebnej nam farby oraz gruntu. Części stałe w farbach i gruntach są to te związki, które „zostają” po odparowaniu rozcieńczalników oraz innych substancji lotnych z danego materiału lakierniczego. Używając farb o większej zawartości części stałych, nie tylko obniżamy emisję lotnych związków organicznych, ale także ograniczamy ilość potrzebnej farby do wykonania danej pracy malarskiej. Zapraszamy do skorzystania z naszego kalkulatora zużyć, który pomoże Państwu w obliczeniach.


If you use a measuring stick then, first of all, you must remember to use it in containers with perpendicular walls. Do not use the measuring stick in conical containers, because then the proportions will not be maintained. We check what the mixing proportions of ingredient A and ingredient B are given (according to the technical sheet), and based on this, we first check how much of ingredient A we have poured in, and add ingredient B according to the proportion given on the strip.


Contrary to what you may think, choosing the right product is not that simple. First, you need to determine your needs or, if you are doing a project, you can check if there are specific requirements for a paint system. Certainly, we need to know basic things such as: 

what type of surface will be painted (steel, aluminum, plastic, pvc, gelcoat, others), 

what are the requirements for the resistance of the paint system, e.g. whether resistance to any type of chemical, UV resistance, hardness, flexibility, etc. is required...,  

in what kind of corrosive environment the component will be used and what kind of durability is required (i.e. for what period should protect us from corrosion), 

how we plan to apply our paints (spray gun, airless, airmix, roller or brush), 

what level of gloss we want to achieve. 

In conclusion, we should ask ourselves what function our paint system is supposed to perform and how long it is supposed to "last" on a given element without changes in gloss, color and corrosion. Only after knowing the answers to the above can you proceed to the selection of the right paint system.  

You can find more on this subject in one of our articles: Do we paint with airmix, airless, aircombi, or maybe aircoat?

The correct way that is measurable is to give the level of gloss in percent (%). Terms such as gloss, matt, semi-matt or satin can mean very different things to different people. That's why it's always a good idea to specify the gloss level in percentage terms, because then you can use appropriate meters, so-called "gloss meters", with which you can determine just the percentage of gloss of a given coating. If you are not able to determine the level of gloss on your own, we recommend that you bring the given reference items to a paint store, where professionals will select the appropriate paint system.

In the Simplex line, we can prepare colours from such palettes (patterns) as RAL, PANTONE, NCS, BRITISH STANDARD and many others. At the moment, practically all so-called colours to industry standard colours are available (i.e. without metallic, pearl or fluorescent effects). In case we do not have a given colour in our database, we can select a colour using color charts or a spectrophotometer.

The difference will indicate whether the product is a one-component product, i.e. "drying" without hardener - hence the term 1K, or a two-component product - i.e. one that needs a hardener to "dry". Typically, 1K products have lower overall physicochemical and weather resistance than 2K products. Each of these types of products has its own advantages and disadvantages.  

The main advantage of 1K products is their simplicity in use - no special ratio regimes are required here, because all we need for application is dilution, and this we can adjust ourselves. In the case of 2K products, in order for the final coating to fulfill its properties, it is necessary to correctly follow the proportions recommended in the technical sheets for mixing component A (paint, primer or primer) with component B (hardener). Changing the ratio will adversely affect a number of elements, from the product's behavior during application to its final properties. In addition, unused mixture after a few hours will no longer be suitable for further use.

Of course it is. It is simply necessary to choose the right products, which have the relevant information in the technical data sheet that they can be used on a given surface. In the case of painting galvanized surfaces, a very important element is the proper preparation of the surface, for example, by so-called abrasive sweeping or manual treatment. As for Simplex products, which can be applied directly (after proper surface preparation, of course) to both aluminum and galvanized steel, these are: 

quick-drying epoxy primer PM.1422.RU, 

epoxy shop-primer PN.1463.VB, 

polyvinyl shop-primer PN.1722.BE, 

anti-corrosive primers (DTM) PM.4212.KH, PM.4215.KH and PM.4218.RX.

In fact, any type of paint can be applied with a roller or brush. Several things are important here. First - it is necessary to choose the right roller or brush for the type of paint (e.g. roller for polyurethane paints, brush for alkyd paints, etc.). Secondly, we need to be aware that the 2K product, when mixed with the hardener, will cure on its own over time, so most likely the rollers or brushes used will not be able to continue to be used. It is slightly easier here with 1K products, as these will not dry on their own (as long as we keep them in a tightly sealed container, of course). In both cases, however, it will be important to use free thinners in relatively small proportions. Of course, the best thing to do in such a case is to study the relevant product technical sheet or consult the seller of the product in question.

Wherever you care about the speed of the painting process, and at the same time do not have the required very large dry film thicknesses (DFT) primer-coat may be a good choice.

Acrylic paints are created on the basis of acrylic resins. Polyurethane products, on the other hand, are those in which polyurethane bonds occur - hence the name "polyurethane paints." Polyurethane paints can be based on acrylic resins and polyester resins. It's hard to unequivocally point out the difference, such as in quality, since acrylic paints themselves can come in different configurations, and thus in quality. In polyurethane paints, these differences will be even greater, and the number of polyurethane paints is very wide. From relatively "simple" products that offer no special added value, to products that have really high resistance parameters, as well as excellent visual properties of the coating. It is generally accepted that acrylic products perform very well in the automotive-like market, and they tend to be easier to polish than polyurethane products (but please note that this is not a rule). Polyurethane paints, on the other hand, are traditionally used in the construction and agricultural machinery markets - due to their high physical and chemical resistance.

The answer to this question, despite appearances, is not simple and clear-cut. We would rather say that it depends.... 

Although, in general, 2K paints are characterized by a much higher overall physical and chemical resistance than single-component paints, the final decision as to which is a better choice for us will depend on the specific situation and the specific paint production. I recommend our article "Does cheap always turn out to be cheaper?", in which we introduce the very issue of proper selection of a paint system.

Thinners can vary greatly in quality. This is mainly influenced by the raw material from which the product is made. These can be so-called "pure" and stable raw materials or raw materials from distilled products (recycled, so to speak). Our products are based entirely on high-quality raw materials and we do not have raw materials from so-called "distillates. Thinners, in addition to being divided by purpose/type (i.e. thinner for acrylics and polyurethanes, for epoxies, for alkyds, etc.), are generally divided into three basic groups: 

fast (i.e., faster evaporating) thinners, which are designed for cooler weather and for smaller parts, 

standard thinners (the most versatile), 

slow (i.e., slow-evaporating) thinners, which are used on warmer days and on large parts. 

The choice of thinner will therefore depend on the application conditions and the time of year or region/country in which the paint product is used.

It is best to follow exactly the recommendations specified in the technical data sheet or simply consult our technical department. Nevertheless, there are a few simple rules to follow. 

First, surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned of all dirt and rust before painting. We remove loosely adhering dirt, rust and other contaminants by hand (using appropriate abrasives) or by blasting (preferably to a degree of at least SA 2.5). If the surface in question is already covered with some kind of coating, it should be removed, and if this is not possible, matted. Before painting itself, the surface should be thoroughly washed and degreased. Also, care should be taken to apply the varnish material after the washing and degreasing agents have completely evaporated. If we are varnishing a previously painted surface, and we are not able to remove this old coating, we should find out what type of paint the element was previously varnished with, and for its repainting choose such a product that is "compatible" with the old coating.

These designations refer to the application methods: 

AIRSPRAY - painting with a traditional air gun or pressure tank. This is the most common and well-known air-powered paint gun. The paint carrier in this method is compressed air. This method gives the best visual effects of the final coating. 

AIRLESS - as the name suggests, this is painting without air. This method of high-pressure application using a suitable hydrodynamic pump uses a piston and its movement to compress the paint, so that high-pressure paint material is transferred to the gun. The gun sprays only the paint, without using air, which is only needed "to drive" the piston. This is a method designed for painting large volumes, as it significantly speeds up the work. One then works at pressures of more than 100 BAR, and sometimes even around 400 BAR. In this method, aesthetics will not be at a high level.

AIRMIX (AIRCOMBI) - this method also uses a hydrodynamic pump, but not with the highest pressures. The gun sprays paint under high pressure, but in addition, a so-called "air shield" is used. It is such a MIX of paint and air. We can say that this method is intermediate between the traditional cup gun and airless painting. It combines the advantages of both methods, as we can paint quickly under high pressure, while achieving a fairly good quality coating.

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